I just moved to Northern Virginia and I'm just amazed at all the straight-grained, knot-free Red Oak available for the taking. The only problem is that my boards and beams are still inside the tree. Is there some sort of inexpensive, muscle-powered rip saw, or other tool that I could use to cut a trunk into planks and beams? It seems a shame for it all to go into fireplaces, but that's where it all goes right now. As must be obvious, I don't know beans about timber-framing (yet), but you guys seemed like a good bet to know about this stuff. Thanks

There are many ways to convert tree trunks into beams. The old fashion way is with an axe. That is still done these days, but takes some practice, and is the least expensive way.
The next step could be a chain saw powered sawmill. Some use a chain saw bar itself and others use a chain saw to power a small band saw. Then there are small portable band saws.
If you're not going to do many you could hire someone with a portable bandsaw mill to come to your site and mill your logs for you, into the size timbers you need for your project.
One way to find such sawmills is to get a magazine called Sawmill and Woodlot. There are lots of ads for these types of sawmills (and they have a website where you can order the magazine).
One way to find sawyers is to call the sawmill factories and ask for the sawyer referral program. This program will tell you who in your area has a mill and will do custom sawing.
For names and phone numbers of these factories, look in the magazine, at the ads.
There are other sites on the internet where you might find more info on sawing such as www.woodweb.com sawmill and drying forum.
Good luck with your research. Jim
Ps. If you need more info email me directly.

Jim, your a sawmiller right?

Kind of related to this topic, I am curious what grade logs you typically mill into beams.

Obviously a beam for a timberframe needs to be sounds, no shakes, but beyond that and cosmetic needs, it seems like veneer quality or FAS grade logs would be overkill in producing timbers.

Most timbers I've worked on in various workshops have been very high quality grade. I'm sure building codes have a say in this... But I'm wondering (for the small buildings I produce) if grade can be sacrificed in many cases, without structurally weakening the structure.

Do you have a hard and fast rule on grading when you mill logs to timbers? Or is it simply based on what the buyer requests and/or local codes demand?

Thanks, hope my question makes sense.
Greg

Greg:
Yes I own and operate a portable bandsaw mill.
Yes building codes to have a 'say' in it. Timbers should be grade two or better. Which is a code, and I'm not sure if that's a local code or nation wide. But I wouldn't want to build a timber frame with anything of a lower grade, would you?
As to hard and fast rules, there are many. And if you are milling your own timbers then you might need to learn them. If you are buying timbers then instruct your sawyer that you want grade two or better. If he doesn't know what grade two or better is, then find another sawyer, or educate him. In your area, I'm not sure what lumber association rules apply. In my area it's NeLMA (New England Lumberman's Association) and they put out a grade rule book, and in it are all the definitions of grades for timbers.
You could do some research in your area and find out what grade rule book you need to get and get one and read up on these grade rules. This will hopefully insure that your timber frames will meet code rules and will pass inspections by building inspectors.
Jim