I have been considering a Garage in my yard. I am interested in the 12x16 plans that are supposedly in the book "Timber Frame construction." I was considering buying that book. I picked it because of the plans. I was going to double the length to fit a truck in there. Here are my questions:

1) Is this a good book?
2) Can I make a 12x32 garage simply by adding two bents in this plan?
3) Does this have a loft with at least 4' walls on the outside?
4) Can anyone venture a guess as to the frame cost for this? I'll have it cut at a local sawmill.
5) Is cottonwood good for the frame? I was at least going to use it for the sheathing and roof underlayment.
6) Can I build it without a concrete floor?

thanks a lot - I really appreciate it!

Mike

I cannot answer all your questions but maybe this will help anyway:

1) I do not know the book.
2) If the plans you are talking about are for a three bent barn then yes, you can just add two additional bents to achive your desired width.
3) Again, I do not know the book/plans.
4) Somewhere between $3000-$6000 depending on the wood species you are using and the cost of labor in you area.
5) Sheathing and roof underlayment is probably okay. I would not use it for the frame.
6)Yes, you can. But I would at least have footing where the posts are going to be.

Mike
I do have the book and am currently cutting the frame.
1) Is this a good book?
yes a very good book from a beginners point of view
2) Can I make a 12x32 garage simply by adding two bents in this plan?
Yes but as the design has continuous plate you will need two 32 foot 8X8s or be able to do a scarf joint
3) Does this have a loft with at least 4' walls on the outside?
Over all floor to top of plate is 10 feet, top of tie beam is 8 feet so No it is more like a 2 foot knee wall
4) Can anyone venture a guess as to the frame cost for this? I'll have it cut at a local sawmill.
An identical shed (12x16)was just posted in an add as $5000 jointed and delivered (not erected)
5) Is cottonwood good for the frame? I was at least going to use it for the sheathing and roof underlayment.
Don't know enough about it to comment
6) Can I build it without a concrete floor?
It is actually designed with a wood floor. You would probably want to add some carring beams the width of the car under the joists. On mine we dug 3 foot cubed holes and filled them with stone and then set 12x12x8 block on that. A layer of 6 mil plastic under the whole building and 4 inches of stone on that. Gets it up off the ground and has good drainage under it, hopefully limiting shifting due to frost.

Hope that helps
Bob

A wood floor is very interesting. I am using it primarily for a garage - for a dually pickup. 11,400 GVW. I actually really like the idea.

That knee wall height is disappointing though. I wanted an office up there and the stairs up against the wall leaving space for a wood stove in the corner. I'll have to think about that. 14' width would make a huge difference too - that's a big truck.

Maybe I need a different set of plans.

I figured as much about cottonwood. It's dirt cheap around here (.50 / bdft cut and green). Oak is about twice that. Can't do much else with cottonwood though. I've got a 60' tree sitting at my father in law's. I don't want to cut it because I don't feel like splitting that. I think I just found a use for it though.

Hi mikeg, I reccomend that book highly. I think widening the building to 14' for the dually is a good idea, but it puts more stress on the floor joists. Jack suggests in the book that if you are going to store a larger tractor or car you should bump the floor joists from 4"x6" to 5"x6". Perhaps you could support the joists mid span for the truck. Or you could delete the floor system and put it on a floating slab.

Dave

mikeg,

as I have mentioned before, I do not know the book or plans you are talking about.
If you like the floor plan in general, just not the dimensions then I would think you could just change them to fit your needs. You just have to be aware that with longer spans you will need larger beams. If the 2' knee wall is too low, you could either add two feet to the posts or install dormers on the roof.

The beams in this design are 8"x8" so you should not have a problem widening the building a little. You also have to take into account you second floor system. The plans call for 2"x joists which will take up some of the knee wall hieght. The alternative would be to use 4"x4" joists in pockets, which is what the book recommends. I assume that 4' of post above the tie beams can take the outward force of the roof but maybe someone with a little more experience could chime in. Increased width would offset the increased kneewall height of the shed, which is quite tall in proportion to its footprint, especially condidering you are also going to increase the length.

Dave

I have this book and it's a good beginners book with a lot of good information. Get it on amazon, probably best price there.
When it comes to a shop or garage, I am always worried about moisture, especially if you are not going to heat it. I'm guessing it's a little drier out there in Kansas than here in the heard of the midwest, which is good for you. Moisture rises from the ground most nights of the year. A car parked on grass and left sit, will rot out 10 times faster than one left sitting on a concrete pad. Put your wood frame directly over dirt, and you'll get the same moisture and rot. Concrete and a vapor barrier are a big help. But even with concrete, there is still the issue of condensation inside the garage. Condensation occurs as the temperature quickly passes through the dew point. The air temp goes up quickly, but the steel vehicle is still much colder and takes longer to warm up. In the presence of enough moisture in the air, the water will condense on the vehicle, concrete and whatever is cold enough. It's just like your cold glass of soda and the condensation forms on the glass. The presence of moisture on the vehicle will cause rust much faster. Condensation on wood will lead to mildew and eventually rot too. Not trying to scare you, but I build classic cars and have to make sure I don't get moisture. I always keep my shop/garages heated to 65 or so. I'll also mention that insulating the building well and using a vapor barrier will reduce this problems for you. The insulation reduces quick changes in temperature.

re: cottonwood.
I have seen a shed built entirely of cottonwood. You either need to kiln dry it, or "nail it green". The wood warps pretty quickly otherwise. It is NOT a good moisture contact wood.
http://www.hblumber.com/species/cottonwood.html

1) awesome book

2) Sure

3) no

4) it says about 1400 bd ft and I was paying about $1 per bd ft of white pine

5) sorry, dunno

6) problem is vehicle weight and the floor joists proposed won't cut it.

I've seen the same frame with a salvaged brick floor instead of the 4x6 floor joists shown in the plan. Used for your exact application.