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finishing rough cut timbers #4350 04/02/02 09:34 PM
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Chris Offline OP
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Somebody mentioned in another thread that linseed oil was not suitable for finishing rough cut timbers.

I'm going to be building an exposed floor joist system using green 4x8 red oak timbers. I'd like to finish these with something that will bring out their natural color and was planning to use a mixture of linseed and turpentine.

What should I use as an alternative and should I apply this before the joists are put into place?

Thanks, Chris

Re: finishing rough cut timbers #4351 04/02/02 11:05 PM
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Roger Nair Offline
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Try the timberframe oil finishes thread dated 3-12-99. http://www.tfguild.org/ubbcgibin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000004

I hope the link is correct.

Re: finishing rough cut timbers #4352 04/02/02 11:27 PM
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Chris Offline OP
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That was the thread I mentioned where someone claimed it was not suitable for rough sawn timbers. I did note the spar varnish and parafin solution.

Are there others that people like for rough sawn timbers?

Or was the person who said that linseed+turp is not suitable for rough sawn timbers wrong?

Thanks, Chris

Re: finishing rough cut timbers #4353 04/02/02 11:51 PM
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Roger Nair Offline
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You can apply finishes to rough timber but the rough surface should be at least sanded or planed lightly to enhance the grain, while leaving saw marks in place. You can apply oil finishes before raising and repair scuffing later. Linseed oil is not a good exterior finish, it feeds mold.

Re: finishing rough cut timbers #4354 04/03/02 12:33 PM
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Rudy R Christian Offline
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Chris,

I checked the old posts and I'm the one responsible for the "not suitable" implication. That post is three years old, so I won't claim to have a clear recollection of my reasoning.

I would suspect I was alluding to two issues. I'm not real keen on finishing rough sawn surfaces. They tend to soak up a lot of finish and get dark without accentuating the grain. They also won't repair very well if somone walks on them with black Vibrum soles at the raising and the "superman" footprints show up the next day. If you sand the offending footprint, it obviously looks different.

Roger Nair's post about light sanding or planing might be the best one. You won't get that unwanted "furniture" look, but will have the option of fixing a smudge without it looking completely out of place.

Sorry for not being more helpful, but I did want to fess up.

Where's Bill Keir when we need his two pence?

Rudy


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