Hi Folks,
In response to Mark Davidson's and dab's (Dave)questions about Timberlinx connectors;
Right up front I will say that I've worked closely with Mike Preston and Neil Maclean of Timberlinx, as a "technical field representative", as well as a supply depot and shipper. I have also been honest with them about my approach to these connectors, and any other mechanical connectors designed to be used for joining timber and log structures, and made clear to them that there is a wide range of opinion and simple gut-reaction within the timber framing community to the use of mechanical connectors in our work. I began as a "traditional crafter" inthe mid-eighties and have an aesthetic and philosophical allegiance to that origin. But I also have, I think, a craftsman-like approach to the process of evolution, and certainly a much greater understanding of structural characteristics of various timber species, and the requirements any design places against those characteristics.
Without getting too deply into the politics of timber frame joinery, and the historical context of the definition of "tradition", all of us have to make decisions about how we approach our work and deliver to our customers that compromise of what they want and what is possible given the limitations of the material we work with. We have to guage our customers' desires, our own parameters, and lay out the options that fit.
So, a long story short; I've told Mike and Neil that I got into timber framing because of a deep and strong attraction to the romantic mix of a building form that seems to represent a simpler, stronger, more "connected" lifestyle, combined with an aesthetic that allows immediate, yet subtle effects on our limbic systems, and that I cannot give that up. That being said, Timberlinx connectors are the first that I've felt confident using, in order to allow me to create some spaces that would otherwise be incredibly difficult or impractical using "traditional" wood-to-wood joinery. I will represent them for what they are; the best completely-concealed fastener I've seen yet.
Their most obvious (and probably originally intended) use is in tension situations. The joint still has to be analyzed so the pins are placed to gain enough resistance to parallel and perpendicular shear to handle the loads. Many, but not all, inspectors' eyes begin to glaze over when you start talking about this stuff, but the fact that a table of engineering values can be shown makes for a big sigh of relief.
The A475 and AB675 connectors are used in combination with 7/8 threaded rod, washer and nut for post hold-downs. The length of the rod, and its connection points to re-bar would be determined by load calculations. Just like a strap or bar, you have to be at the pour to place them correctly, or trust you concrete guy to do so accurately. Once they're in, it's pretty easy to plot their exact location into the post bottom, and bore the holes. As far as the raising goes, I hated getting my hands under a post during the raising to try to guide a bar or strap into a slot on an interior post; it's pretty easy to steer posts down onto these things, especially if the end-bore is a little bigger (1-1/4" or1-1/2") than would be normally done. A larger bore also allows a little more knocking around after the post is down to locate and plumb it correctly.
Using Timberlinx will change the assembly and raising process a bit, depending on your frame design. Pieces generally need to enter the joint at 180 degrees to the pipe, if the pipe is not able to be inserted from the back side once the joint is together. But this kind of question comes up during the design phase, and isn't all that necessary to go into now.
Well, I've probably lost 3/4 of you guys through simple volume of verbiage at this point, so I guess I'd better close it up. The guys at Bensonwood Homes may have more to say about the hold-down uses; they have a much higher volume than I, and will likely have encountered some experiences I haven't.
Bottom line is; Used correctly and appropriately the Timberlinx connector is superior when you need or want mechanical connection. The cut can and will go faster. After the frame is up, we framers may be able to tell the difference in one or two situations, but if you were to visually compare a Timberlinxed frame with a tenoned frame by the same company, it would be very difficult to tell the difference.
I'm sure some people will have strong reactions. I invite more questions, and continue to be intrigued and challenged in a very positive way with the discussions of definitions, roles, contexts, etc that have been continual within the Guild since its inception.
Cheers,
Chip Swanson
Berry Hill Timber Frames
Cambridgeport, VT
866-222-3413
www.bhtimberframes.com