How are you attacing the sill to the foundation?
I'm planning to use presuretreated 2x12 on the foundation but will need to anchor the sills to the PT subsill. Thanks in advance!

Dan

Dan,
Is there a question in there somewhere ?
don't forget the closed cell air stop between the foundation and the 2x12.
deralte

Here's one way.....

I tied my stub tennoned posts to my timber sills with straps like those Jim has illustrated. The sills sit on a 2x12 PT subsill and are tied to the foundation with long J bolts.
In the addition where I was working with 2x8 floor framing and just the 2x12 PT sill I rabbeted my post bottoms to fit around the rim joist and used a lag bolt to tie them together.



I'm afraid my picture isn't as informative as Jim's but you can just see the rabbets at the bottom of the post.

For true "hold down" capacity with metal straps typically they should run up the post 2 to 3 feet (it depends on the calculated uplift based on exposure, roof size, and post spacing). Also every hole should be secured with 16 penny nails. But here's the real kicker, the strap should really be embedded in the concrete with a hook in the bottom, preferably looped around a piece of horizontal rebar. The simpson HPAHD22 (see link below) w/ 21-16d nails will give you between 4000 and 5000 pounds of uplift resistance. The strap around the p.t. sill is not considered adequate. That said, it is usually acceptable to most building inspectors to simply toenail the rim joist of a conventionally framed buildign to the sill...so go figure!

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/PA-PAHD-HPAHD.html#gallery

Thanks Everyone! Yes, Emmett, there was a question in there. )) I was wondering what Simpson strong ties to use as well as other thoughts on securing the sill to the PT 2x12. The wind can whip around pretty good in the winter and I want to make sure things stay in place.

Thanks again!
Dan

Emmett...the face in the previous post was suppose to be

Dan,
The several techniques offered will work.
some tips : A stub tenon in the bottom of the post sitting in a mortise cut in the pt 2x12 addresses lateral movement of the post bottom.
Strap hold downs with multiple nails are just plain ugly and I am not a fan of several closely spaced nails along the grain in the post. Use a slightly heavier piece of steel expoxied and lagged into the outside face of the foundation, passing by or going thru the narrow face of the pt 2x12 and then lagged into the outside face of the post with a couple of 3/8 lags spaced about 6" inches apart vertically with the lower one at least 3" up from the post bottom.
deralte

Emmett,
Actually, There will be an 8x10 sill sitting on the 2x12 PT. The posts are all stub tenoned into the 8x10 sill. My question was what is the recommended way to fasten the 8x10 sill down to the PT 2x12 that is fastened to the foundation wall. The 8x10 sill will stand on edge giving 10" of sill height. Should I strap the posts to the sill? There's quite a bit of weight to the structure.

dan,
As others pointed out strapping to the 2x12 has risk. Using an "L" bracket screwed to the 2x12 is also suspect unless the horizontal section is also jbolted into the concrete thru the 2x12/
Leads me back to my next previous response, a 3/16 steel strap lagged into the exterior post face and passing thru a slot in the 2x12 then in turn expoxied and lagged into the concrete will give you the greatest hold down. There are epoxy cylinders which are inserted in your drilled holes in the concrete which crush from the lag screw. Net is very very strong connection. Don't let a hurricane turn your castle into matchsticks.
There are other systems more complex in execution but this method is in my view the best compromise for strenght and ease of execution. In some cases the outside face of the post has been routed to the depth and shape of the steel strap so the face of the post is still one plane.
Hope this helps.
deralte