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Re: 2" auger bits #6074 02/03/06 04:41 AM
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Dan F Offline
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For a heavy duty electric drill, as mentioned above, you might consider a 1 1/2" bit. I like Milwaukee's bit. It's about 6-7" long with about 4-4 1/2" of twist. Mortises more than 5" or so may require attention to chip removal. I believe Irwin still makes the long 1 1/2" bit (16" or so?)and they're decent bits althogh I've never used them for mortises. The narrower shank may lose its trueness doing the demand work of mortises.
For the most part, the critical points of the mortise are at the surface for the purpose of locating the joint. If the sides are cut a little wide (in this case by clean-up with a chisel), it won't affect the joint. The ends of the mortise should be more accurate, especially in a brace mortise.
Using a smaller bit means more hand work, but if that's what you have...... This bit has worked well for me in my boring machine too, with no modification except an extension to the shank if needed for length. Good luck.

Re: 2" auger bits #6075 02/04/06 08:41 PM
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Chris Gunn Offline
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try bitsnbores.com

Re: 2" auger bits #6076 02/05/06 03:36 AM
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hello all:

Well just couldn't help hopping in here, great topic.

Well from my perspective, and experience for what it may be worth, here is what I used for many years and hundreds of mortices later. My preference and what I used for quick and accurate work, and for rough hewn surfaced timber was a 2" shipwright's auger for a 2" mortice, driven by a heavy duty 1\2" electric drill (be careful). I levelled the timber using the markout lines on the end, and then using a short torpedo level along 2 of the sides of the auger started the inward travel of the bit.
I then stopped, and checked for level once again and then finished to the depth. I had a short 1" by 2" stick placed on the top of the timber, and under the case of the drill to stop the inward travel. The length of this stick was pre determined for that particular mortice, For mortices that went right through, I drilled half way from the two opposing sides, this always seemed to work well, in my books nothing works better than a shipwrights auger for accuracy. this proceedure needs help from a journeyman or helper.
NH

Re: 2" auger bits #6077 02/06/06 03:20 PM
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topshelf Offline OP
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Thanks again for you input since I am very new to this. You mention a 2" shipwrights auger bit. Do you have a good source for these? Also I was wondering about the through mortise and whether to drill as far as I could from one side and the do the remainder from the oposite side or to just go half way from each side. It seems that it would be more accurate going half way from each side. Also when you use the 2" auger bit do you just us it to drill the ends of each mortise or do you drill consecutive holes the entire length of the mortise? The feedback here was that if you drilled continous 2" holes that the overall width of the mortise would be slightly wider than 2".

Re: 2" auger bits #6078 02/07/06 02:39 PM
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Jim Rogers Online Confused
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Quote:
Originally posted by topshelf:
Also when you use the 2" auger bit do you just us it to drill the ends of each mortise or do you drill consecutive holes the entire length of the mortise? The feedback here was that if you drilled continuous 2" holes that the overall width of the mortise would be slightly wider than 2".
When we layout a mortise we do it like this:



And we use a two inch bit to do a two inch mortise. We bore half way through from each side when doing a through mortise.

We scribe the outline of the mortise with a knife to prevent the bits from "chipping out" the wood outside the perimeter of the mortise.



When laid out and bored correctly it will not be outside the lines and when squared up will be ok.
Most mortises could have a housing on one side or both, and in those cases the side towards the housing will be covered by the timber with the tenon on it and the mortise shoulder will not be seen. When the mortise only has a housing on one side such as a brace mortise then care should be taken to not bore "outside the line".

Hope this helps.

Jim Rogers


Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Re: 2" auger bits #6079 02/08/06 12:33 AM
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Gabel Offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by topshelf:
The feedback here was that if you drilled continous 2" holes that the overall width of the mortise would be slightly wider than 2".[/QB]
In my experience that is exactly what you want.

Gabel

Re: 2" auger bits #6080 02/08/06 03:10 AM
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topshelf Offline OP
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Thanks again for all the info. I never thought I would get the feedback from this forum. It is obvious you guys love what you do. Now that you have been so much help on drilling the mortise I hve two other questions to go along with it. Should I use a 2" chisel or a 1-1/2 to clean up the mortise? I know that it is probably personal preference but I would love to hear your feedback. Also can someone steer me the right direction on a tenon and rip saw? What to look for in new and used. I would prefer to pay more for quality. By the way I scored one 2" auger bit on E-bay for $3.50 plus shipping. I received it yesterday and it is awsome shape. I waon another one for $10 yesterday. Hopefully that one will be as good. I have been looking at the slicks and chisels but don't really know what to look for. It sounds like the Barr chisels are the way to go if I buy new. debating on a 1-1/2 or 2".

Re: 2" auger bits #6081 02/08/06 12:39 PM
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If you get only one chisel, get 1 1/2", as it will oviously do both 1 1/2 and 2" mortises.

If I were going to drill the mortises out like you, I would get a 1 1/2. Some people like to use corner chisels to square up the ends of bored mortises, but I usually don't.

Good luck

Re: 2" auger bits #6082 02/09/06 01:12 PM
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Dan Miller Offline
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Choose your chisel width to match the width of your mortices. Akthough you will certainly find exceptions, most joinery is either 1-1/2" mortices set in 1-1/2" off the reference face, or 2" mortices set in 2". (My last project was 1-1/2" mortices set in 2"). Usually the mortice width is consistent throughout the frame. Choosing the width of your chisel to the width of the mortice will make cleaning up faster. Put a ruler to the chisel and make sure it isn't undersized. Oversized chisels can be ground.

For saws, I like an old Disston rip saw from the flea market. Rip saws are easy to re-sharpen. For x-cut, I've been using Stanley Sharptooth saws. They last for about 2 frames, and at $15 can be thought of as disposable. A good 8 point x-cut can be had from the fleas as well, but the sharpening learning curve is steeper than for rips.

Cheers,
Dan

Re: 2" auger bits #6083 03/01/06 10:42 PM
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Will B Offline
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Caution!
Using a 2" bit originally designed for a hand tool (like a t-auger or boring machine) may not have the metallurgical qualities required for a higher speed electric drill, so take it very slow if you refit one. I'd be curious to know what an expert in metals and forging could say about this.

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