Hi!

I'm about to buy power tools for my first solo attempt at timber framing. I have decided on a Makita chain mortiser, but am undecided on which size circular saw to get.

My initial thought was a Makita 16". It would not only be useful for cutting timbers, but could also make many of the cuts on SIP's.

Question: Since aproximately 6" cutting depth will not do all the cuts needed on SIP's, should I opt for a smaller saw (say 10", 12"...) for cutting timbers? The lighter weight would be easier for me to lift. Would it be safer? Would a smaller saw make all the cuts I'd likely need for timber framing? If a smaller saw is the way to go, who's saw would you buy (Makita, Milwalki, Bib Foot...)?

Question: An electric chain saw (or Prazi...) would likely have the depth needed for SIP's, but the wide kerf will make more SIP saw dust (than a circular saw). Is there a better way?

Joel

P.S. I have a couple 7-1/4" circular saws and a small Makita 2-1/2" (aprox.) cordless circular saw.

i bought the makita 10 inch circular and sent it back
then i bought the milwakee 10 inch and i should have sent it back also..it now sits in the box all the time.
we are now doing bigger cuts with an 8 1/2 inch dewalt circular(excellent saw) and following with the electric chainsaw (makita 16" -also a good tool)
It is amazing how much the 8 1/2 inch saw can do.
-Mark.

Mark...

Thank you for your reply.

You're saying something similar to what I've suspected...that a smaller saw is not necessarily less useful. Is the 8-1/2" your largest circular saw?

I'd expect the kerf of the circular saw to be much smaller than the kerf of the electric chain saw. What technique are you using when finishing a cut deeper than the 8-1/2" can handle?

Do you see and significant safety issues for a novice with respect to saw size? One side of my brain is intiminated by the size of a 16" saw and says "bigger means more dangerous". Well, maybe intimidated is the wrong word...perhaps "respect" at the very least. The othe side of my brain says "more powerful, more likely to continue cutting rather than binding up and kicking back". When plunge cutting with the litte 2-1/2 cordless Makita, I've had a few kickbacks (no harm done). My sense is that it's low weight makes for precious little inertia to absorb the forces that cause kickback to occur. An I even close with this line of thinking?

Joel

the 8 1/2 is the largest saw we are using every day......i have a 10in millwakee that sits in the box, i could sell it to ya very reasonably

I do like the electric chainsaw quite a bit and I feel it's worth spending some dollars to get something decent. Lines can be cut with a circular saw, then the chainsaw can finish the cut back of the line a bit, the center of the cut can then be ground off somewhat using the chainsaw and we follow with a small power planer and finish with a block plane when neccessary.

I think you are right to respect the bigger saws, especially a big saw with a dull blade. If you could find someone who has a bigger saw and visit them to try a few cuts that would help, otherwise i would step up slowly in size(although i write this having never tried the 16" makita).
You would also be wise to respect the electric chainsaw, in my opinion a far more deadly machine than any circular saw i've used. I would suggest a hard hat be on your head every time you cut with a chainsaw of any kind......
When a saw (circular or chainsaw) binds, it is best to back up and slice some wood away from the waste side of your cut, this should free the blade, allowing you to straighten out and cool down.
ok, take care and work safe.

General safety rules with any skill type hand held circular saw: "NEVER BACK UP WITH BLADE TURNING". The number one cause of kick back is the blade catching the side of the cut already made while backing up.
If you are making a forward cut and the blade wanders off line or off your intended line, stop the blade by releasing the switch. DO NOT MOVE THE SAW, until the blade has stopped turning. Then remove the saw from the wood and start in again, and you can make release cuts or relief cuts to prevent the wood from binding on your saw blade.
I insist that the saw remain still until the blade stops turning at all my workshops. Soon after I instructed a bunch of students about this, one of the students emailed me to thank me about teaching them about saw safety as he just seen someone who had 17 stitches in what was left of his thumb from a saw kick back.
Safety first, read all manuals that come with the saws, and make some practice cuts to get the "feel" of the saw before making a precise cut.
Good luck and work safely.
Jim Rogers

Mark and Jim...

Thank you both for your replies...especially those about how to stay safe. Much appreciated.

Jim, your thoughts on size of circular saw for timberframing?

I've heard good and bad about the millwakee 10". Is there more than one model?

Joel

i wouldn't pick up the milwakee 10" unless you are sure you can return it.
The adjustment for depth and angle are one problem and a flimsy base is another( it's possible to bend the saw angle with relatively light pressure)
I was thinking about circular saws today and i think quality is more importand than size.
-M.

Mark...

I agree with you about quality. I can't say I need European quality tools, but if the base flexes and it can't hold an angle or depth setting I would not want the tool!

In this size range, what saws are good quality? BigFoot? Makita? etc...

Joel

Saws, drills, planers, recip saws all in conventional sizes AND 18v portable (20 min recharge time) my experience says BOSCH tools with their rugged construction and steel gears are hard to beat for reliability, adjustable torque and smooth cuts. Careful selection of shipwright bits drilled most all the holes in Charleston on 1 battery. The several guys who tried my brute all liked it a lot. Bigger material for sawing out comes the chain saw. All this for less than $1200 list.
Work safe, have fun.

Part two so I don't sound like I am completely biased for German tools try out the vendor offerings at the Eastern Conference in 7 Springs the end of the month. Bring your own band aids
deralte