Hi!

I'm about to buy power tools for my first solo attempt at timber framing. I have decided on a Makita chain mortiser, but am undecided on which size circular saw to get.

My initial thought was a Makita 16". It would not only be useful for cutting timbers, but could also make many of the cuts on SIP's.

Question: Since aproximately 6" cutting depth will not do all the cuts needed on SIP's, should I opt for a smaller saw (say 10", 12"...) for cutting timbers? The lighter weight would be easier for me to lift. Would it be safer? Would a smaller saw make all the cuts I'd likely need for timber framing? If a smaller saw is the way to go, who's saw would you buy (Makita, Milwalki, Bib Foot...)?

Question: An electric chain saw (or Prazi...) would likely have the depth needed for SIP's, but the wide kerf will make more SIP saw dust (than a circular saw). Is there a better way?

Joel

P.S. I have a couple 7-1/4" circular saws and a small Makita 2-1/2" (aprox.) cordless circular saw.

i bought the makita 10 inch circular and sent it back
then i bought the milwakee 10 inch and i should have sent it back also..it now sits in the box all the time.
we are now doing bigger cuts with an 8 1/2 inch dewalt circular(excellent saw) and following with the electric chainsaw (makita 16" -also a good tool)
It is amazing how much the 8 1/2 inch saw can do.
-Mark.

Mark...

Thank you for your reply.

You're saying something similar to what I've suspected...that a smaller saw is not necessarily less useful. Is the 8-1/2" your largest circular saw?

I'd expect the kerf of the circular saw to be much smaller than the kerf of the electric chain saw. What technique are you using when finishing a cut deeper than the 8-1/2" can handle?

Do you see and significant safety issues for a novice with respect to saw size? One side of my brain is intiminated by the size of a 16" saw and says "bigger means more dangerous". Well, maybe intimidated is the wrong word...perhaps "respect" at the very least. The othe side of my brain says "more powerful, more likely to continue cutting rather than binding up and kicking back". When plunge cutting with the litte 2-1/2 cordless Makita, I've had a few kickbacks (no harm done). My sense is that it's low weight makes for precious little inertia to absorb the forces that cause kickback to occur. An I even close with this line of thinking?

Joel

the 8 1/2 is the largest saw we are using every day......i have a 10in millwakee that sits in the box, i could sell it to ya very reasonably

I do like the electric chainsaw quite a bit and I feel it's worth spending some dollars to get something decent. Lines can be cut with a circular saw, then the chainsaw can finish the cut back of the line a bit, the center of the cut can then be ground off somewhat using the chainsaw and we follow with a small power planer and finish with a block plane when neccessary.

I think you are right to respect the bigger saws, especially a big saw with a dull blade. If you could find someone who has a bigger saw and visit them to try a few cuts that would help, otherwise i would step up slowly in size(although i write this having never tried the 16" makita).
You would also be wise to respect the electric chainsaw, in my opinion a far more deadly machine than any circular saw i've used. I would suggest a hard hat be on your head every time you cut with a chainsaw of any kind......
When a saw (circular or chainsaw) binds, it is best to back up and slice some wood away from the waste side of your cut, this should free the blade, allowing you to straighten out and cool down.
ok, take care and work safe.

General safety rules with any skill type hand held circular saw: "NEVER BACK UP WITH BLADE TURNING". The number one cause of kick back is the blade catching the side of the cut already made while backing up.
If you are making a forward cut and the blade wanders off line or off your intended line, stop the blade by releasing the switch. DO NOT MOVE THE SAW, until the blade has stopped turning. Then remove the saw from the wood and start in again, and you can make release cuts or relief cuts to prevent the wood from binding on your saw blade.
I insist that the saw remain still until the blade stops turning at all my workshops. Soon after I instructed a bunch of students about this, one of the students emailed me to thank me about teaching them about saw safety as he just seen someone who had 17 stitches in what was left of his thumb from a saw kick back.
Safety first, read all manuals that come with the saws, and make some practice cuts to get the "feel" of the saw before making a precise cut.
Good luck and work safely.
Jim Rogers

Mark and Jim...

Thank you both for your replies...especially those about how to stay safe. Much appreciated.

Jim, your thoughts on size of circular saw for timberframing?

I've heard good and bad about the millwakee 10". Is there more than one model?

Joel

i wouldn't pick up the milwakee 10" unless you are sure you can return it.
The adjustment for depth and angle are one problem and a flimsy base is another( it's possible to bend the saw angle with relatively light pressure)
I was thinking about circular saws today and i think quality is more importand than size.
-M.

Mark...

I agree with you about quality. I can't say I need European quality tools, but if the base flexes and it can't hold an angle or depth setting I would not want the tool!

In this size range, what saws are good quality? BigFoot? Makita? etc...

Joel

Saws, drills, planers, recip saws all in conventional sizes AND 18v portable (20 min recharge time) my experience says BOSCH tools with their rugged construction and steel gears are hard to beat for reliability, adjustable torque and smooth cuts. Careful selection of shipwright bits drilled most all the holes in Charleston on 1 battery. The several guys who tried my brute all liked it a lot. Bigger material for sawing out comes the chain saw. All this for less than $1200 list.
Work safe, have fun.

Part two so I don't sound like I am completely biased for German tools try out the vendor offerings at the Eastern Conference in 7 Springs the end of the month. Bring your own band aids
deralte

Emmett...

Never owned a Bosch tool...but your comments are well taken. Their side winder circular saw is an upgrade option for the BigFoot saw. I'm starting to lean towards getting the Bocsh side winder. That way, if I feel I "need" a deeper cut, I could always get the BigFoot as a kit to install on my saw.

I'm enlightened by everyone's comments on using a chain saw. It never dawned on me to combine it with the use of a conventional circular saw. Interestingly enough, I moved up from a small home owner chain saw to one of the professional saws that is part of the Stilh product line. Cost a bit more than the other Stihl saws of the same size, but what a great saw!

Thank you for your reply!

Joel

As to what saw I'd recommend, that's a hard decision for me to make.
I own several of all different sizes.
I have a small portable battery powered Porter Cable, 19.2 volt, that came with a nice electric drill in a hard case. I have two batteries and keep one in the quick charger all the time. Very nice light but powerful tools.
I have a Makita 7 1/4 circular saw. A good all around tool.
I have a very old Millers Falls 8" circular saw that was my fathers that we used in the 60's and 70's and is still going strong. A nice old tool that cuts a little deeper than the 7 1/4".
I have a Skil worm drive saw, 7 1/4" that I have a Prazi beam cutter attached to it, capable of cutting off a 12" beam one pass. But I have used the Skil worm drive with regular blades and like it as well. A very powerful saw.
I have a Makita 16" saw, that I got used from the rental department at my local home depot store. (I think I posted a story about that here somewhere.)
And of course I have a hand saw.
Oh, yea and several chain saws and last but not least a bandsaw sawmill (Woodmizer brand).
So I guess I've got just about every size saw a timber framer could use to cut wood with.
Here at my sawmill yard, when I teach beginners timber framing, I teach them how to use any of the above saws that they want to learn how to use. But I stress that they should practice with the same size saw that they will be using at home when they are creating their own frame.
There is nothing wrong with a Big Foot, 10" saw. I've seen them, I've used them, I just don't currently own one. There are probably lots of other good quality saws out there. And probably lots of low quality saws as well.
Sometimes you'll start a cut with a 7 1/4" saw that won't cut as deep as you need it to go to finish the cut and by the time you go get the big saw or gas up the chain saw, you could have finished the cut with a good sharp hand saw, and I often do.
You can go broke buying all the fancy tools and then pack them all up to go to the job site, and have to unload them all, or you can do it with just a few tools and it might take a few minutes longer to do the same job.
It's really up to the individual what he or she wants to use to do the job, what tools they can afford and how fast do they want to do the job.
Good discussion.
Jim Rogers

Excellent point on the handsaw Jim...
Often it's faster to finish the center of a joist or smaller beam with a handsaw because there is less clean-up than a chainsaw. Something that can help in this regard is to have a circular saw blade which leaves a kerf big enough for your favorite sharp handsaw.