This is a spin-off of Gabel's axe thread. I was wondering what kind of adzes people were using. I have a shipwrights adze which I am going to fit a handle to tonight. It is very flat, not a lot of sweep to the bottom of the blade, I don't know how well it is going to work on rafter tails and joist ends. I have been looking for a more conventional adze but have not seen one that has the pronounced radius of the ones I have used. All the new ones in the catalogs are very flat, and I don't think they will clear the arc of the cut. I have also been told the the back of an adze should have the same radius as your swing. I would like to hear what everyone else is using, and also a little about technique. I usually rest my right hand on my thigh and use it as a pivot, but some people swing it like a hoe. Not sure what is corredt though. Putting your hand on your thigh seems to give me more control and less likely to take a chunk out of my ankle.

ah, the adze, one of my favorite tools, thanks for posting this thread DMS.
I don't have any photos of my adzes online, will try to take some and post sometime...
The main adze I use, I call a carpenter's adze. It has plenty of radius, and I use a very short handle, so I can work the timbers right on the cribbing(hip hieght). I use the adze mostly for joinery(housings, roughing out tenons) and sizing down timber ends to fit notches(joists, rafters) In the courses I teach, the adze is one of the tools I encourage everyone to try, and I try to relate the swing of the adze to swinging a golf club, which most people have tried. I don't use my arms much but swing more with my torso, keeping the center of the circle still. You should be able to vary the radius of your swing by choking up on the handle. I tied a ship adze once and quickly hung it up on the wall.... too flat for what I do.
I'll get back with that photo asap.

here's some adze pics:

That last pic shows the radius very well, that is the kind of adze I need to find. My shipwrights adze is definately to flat for joist and rafter tails.

HI DMS:

Just my 2 cents worth here on using the adze.

Like Mark I really enjoy using the adze and it is very handy for many different woodworking chores especially around timberframing.

I have much respect for the adze it is great but it is also very dangerous used by someone not accustomed to using one or having just acquired one and learning for the first time. Even then a very small slip can cause damge that can take a long time to heal.

Unlike Mark I always used a longer handle one that as I grasp it just down from the end of the handle it will skip the floor. Again I always used it by standing on my work and working in between my feet. There maybe instances when it is necessary to improvise an area for your feet to be at a safe distance, and I give you an example --shaping out a tenon on the end of a timber--. I would say though for most jobs that I can think of I always was able to stand directly on the timber and work.

Curvature of the blade is extremely important, and like a broadaxe learn with one and stay with one,. Unfortunately I have no pictures to post to the site of my adzes, but the one that Mark is showing looks like it is a good one as a model.

I use a hand made handles in mine, and they all have a fair amount of sweep and turn at the end. This sweep and turn gives you more control with your wrist as you work, and the sweep of the handle as it exits the eye of the adze in turn governs the angle of the cutting edge at the work level. It also positions the hands in front of yor body as you work along

I have no idea what you mean when you say you are resting you one hand on your thigh, I personally use both hands on the handle 100% of the time, and being right handed I rest my left elbow against my thigh as I work. Sometimes it is hard to explain how one works it just comes naturally, seeing how the work is being done by someone else is a good teacher, and then have someone to instruct and watch as you try to master (a) technique.

The method that i was taught was like that I explain above, I was never shown the method of working at hip height, so I can't comment on that technique, I will leave that up to Mark or others.

One last thing, there are many adze types out there, chose one that is not too heavy, nice and thin in the blade, and one that seems to have been used alot, no poll on the back or very little is needed for timberframe work. Alittle poll though was good for pounding in wood pins, or other light chores as you work. the cutting edge should be of very hard tool steel and not accept filing.

NH

NH, It is hard to explain the technique I was taught. Basically I am putting my right hand on the top of the handle and my left lower down. I then place my right hand against my thigh. This makes the adze an extension of your body and reduces the risk of digging into your leg or foot. When using this style you don't really swing the adze per se, but move your whole body in a very controlled sweep, which I have had good results with. I have seen some wild freehand adzing, and want nothing to do with that activity.

Dave

I have an adze similar to yours Mark, but with a longer handle. I see already why you prefer a shorter handle. Anyone know a way to tighten a slightly loose handle on an adze or does it just need a new handle refitted to it? Does anyone actually use the poll on these adzes? tb

Hi TB

For what it is worth here is my solution.

Through my career when my adze handle came loose, because of the taper inside the head (or the rectangular socket) it was just a matter of taking a mallet and tapping it in further.

If the handle was created properly there should be enough of the handle protruding to remedy the situation. For a short term fix if there is alot of play use a piece of thin leather and then tap in the handle snugly just to finish out the day, this is not a long term fix!.

What ever you do don't work with a loose handle, because it can cause a serious accident, stop and tighten or make a new handle what ever the case may be.

NH

you can take an adze handle and cut a wedge slot in it, then wedge it the same as an axe handle.

Thanks guys. Great help, I just knocked it in further and continued on. tb