Cull the post, put the bow to the inside, or move the brace -- those are your options, mo.

This happens in other circumstances -- crowned rafters with a collar joining. Or a bowed floor beam -now your joist only has a 1/2" bearing because you laid your joist pocket depths out from a chalk line -- you got to make your joist longer and get a deep enough housing. Or anywhere 2 sticks join each other and one bows away from the other so much it is outside the lines of it's "perfect timber".

The bottom line is that working with wood this curvy is a pain. You can't get all the efficiencies of square rule going, because you end up with an exception to each rule. "Was this the girt that is only 7" tall?" "Which one was it that had a 3/4" sweep, so we have to move the . . . ?" The drawings end up covered in little notes to remind you what you did here or there, so you can remember to shift this or change that length. You end up square-mapping it and it's a real pain. But it can work.

It's a really strong argument for using good wood.


Then there's always what a guy I worked with once told me. "You'd be amazed how much you can bend wood"

and sometimes, that's the approach that makes sense.