I should clarify. This system is not for me personally. If I were building for myself I would definitely do a 'down and dirty' system, probably with waddle and daub infill between timber posts that are exposed on the outside. This is a system I am trying to develop as an alternative to SIP's for commercial timber framing. It's a part of my long quest to make timber framing available to people that aren't fabulously wealthy. It is my dream to make timber framing something that the common man can afford, because I believe it is something that our society should return to and we will not return to it unless it is available to the majority. (Sorry, I rambled again. just slap me upside the head next time)

Blake, you have some great ideas there. I hadn't thought about having the stud wall offset to the outside of the timbers to have an insulation gap behind the posts! Thanks a lot, that right there solves my biggest problem! Not only that, it allows me to have a little more exposed timber for those who want that look.

The actual insulating material is not so important, that is something that can be decided on a case-for-case basis.

I should also mention that I am a fan of having rigid OSB sheathing on the outside for the sake of nailing and attaching things, like siding. I despise doing remodel work on a house that has only foam or blackboard sheathing and no plywood or anything rigid.

So here is what I am thinking at this point:

Standard Timber Framed structure, with a large space between posts, fully braced so that the frame itself is self-supporting. I.e. it does not rely on sheathing or panels for stiffness and bracing.

The sills and top plates extend past the posts on the outside wall by 2 or 3 inches.

2x6 studs are framed in either 16" or 24" o.c., with the studs placed so that the posts will fall between studs without interrupting their spacing. This can be done easily by starting the stud layout at the outside corner of the sill, since it is out 2 or 3 inches from the post, assuming that the post spacing matches up with the 16" or 24" stud spacing. These studs are lined up with the outside of the sills, so that the exterior wall will be out 2 or 3 inches from the posts, allowing for at least some insulation on 3 sides of the posts.

No sheathing material is applied directly to the timber posts, it is attached to the 9non-structural) studs, and to the sills and plates above and below.

Drywall, lathe ad plaster, or paneling is applied to the interior walls. The cavity between the inside and outside walls can be insulated as if it were a stick framed walls, with the space between the post and exterior wall insulated as well. The insulation material depends on the customer and their budget.

Or option 2, which is what Blake described (option 1 is a hybrid of Blake's idea and my original idea)So I won't repost it, since it was the last post anyway! (I think that would seem kind of disrespectful too)

Both have their advantages, and their disadvantages. I should run up some figures to see which is the winner.

By the way, r-35 sounds pretty good to me!

It seems to me that Blake's idea would make a good super-insulated system, but could potentially be a bit on the expensive side (which isn't always a bad thing either) whereas my modification of the original system, inspired by Blake's idea, might be a bit more affordable (which isn't always a good thing) I think it would be wise to have both as options. I should make up some drawings, because it's always hard to describe things like this with just words...

Thanks again, guys! This is the reason we bring our questions to places like this