Thanks for the reply, Tim.

Actually I might be able to insulate the inside of the gable ends and outside the eave walls; I know I overhung the eave walls a bit more than the gables. Would there be an advantage to doing it this way do you think?

I realize 1" boards are not a whole lot to attach to; I used 2x4s horizontally on the flat as nailers throughout, and no board goes more than 4' without being nailed to something.

If I used the infill approach that I first considered, I was going to cut the 2" foam to fit the recesses between posts, connectors, braces, etc., followed by a same shaped piece of sheet rock covering the foam, held in place by 3/4" trim to cover any gap and allow for movement. I've gotten some advice suggesting using spray foam to fill any gaps between the foam and the posts, etc., but I'm wondering how effective it will be as the posts shrink and swell. As there's only 6 posts in the frame, I figured it would be a pretty quick, rudimentary insulation job.

I'd like to heat with wood, but am leaning towards using something like a ceiling-mounted propane garage heater - the main advantage being it wouldn't permanently take up any valuable floor space (it's only 20x20). I really don't think I can sacrifice any floor space (plus clearances) for a woodstove, unfortunately.

I was thinking I could get away without a vapor barrier in my case, but you hear and read so much about the damage caused by missing or incorrectly applied vapor barriers that I wanted to throw it out there for some feedback.

Thanks again,
Audi