hello tonight

well my thoughts are---from past experiences--

We did alot of hewing of timbers at UCV as demonstration work, but with a purpose in mind--something like you are doing--

For instance when we needed the A frame bridge replaced--with many special sized timbers--some were 16" square 30 feet long--we hewed for 3 seasons, laying away each one carefully, but not outside, we stored them in an open sided building, nothing special, but good weather protection is important for sure--we , hewed all northern white pine, and left them rough hewn, because that is what was needed

Now there is something to be said for leaving them dry rough, for instance if they happen to twist, you can counter hew them to straighten them up--(take the wind out of them)--remember that timbers dry slowly also, it might take 3 or 4 seasons to nearly dry a timber to a point that it will stay nearly stable in a warm environment

It sounds like you are going to plane them at some point, that is another need to have them as dry and stable as possible, they will also be lighter to handle

We just put narrow boards between the layers, and kept an eye out for those pesky powder post beetles, that love any type of damp wood, and it will stay damp where they are stickered, so once a year we would roll them out and check them and resticker in a different location

Another point-- the last timbers that you do will be alot greener than the rest--don't forget that--so there will always be that differential--try and do the important timbers first, like the long upper plates and wall timbers, the lower or floor structure isn't quite as important, or those that are covered up

I really don't know if sealing the ends is a good thing, the timbers breathe and expell their moisture through their ends, so in my book leave the ends alone, sawn lumber is a different thing and can be handled differently.

I never remember seeing timbers split at the ends from drying--nothing more that normal checks--maybe some of you guys can comment

NH