Perhaps, Jay, if you lived in a different time say the future and viewed some of my work you would be making skinny pegs, too.

Spike or screw the half laps, is another choice. Nails were used traditionally. Threaded tenon? have not come across this term.

It is the amount of draw that can make for a tight fit, not the size of the hole. The holes in the tenon and mortice are the same size, just not aligned perfectly in each joint. I am not a CNC machine.


The following quote is a good example of where I can pick out a slim peg and not wreck the relish.
"If a peg is out of proportion enough to cause relish failure, you have a trunnel that needs to be replaced and/or shaped more accurately." ......If your draw is on the tight side and you insert a full sized peg you will bust the relish out.

I have no problem rendering a peg in a speedy and timely manner, as well as one that is in good proportion.

Yes, I have seen wedged half dovetailed tie beams with no pegs, the sad thing is no one came back and pegged it. In one particular case the joint had pulled apart by about 4 inches. It didn't even get iron staples. Don't get to see much dutch barn material in my part of the states.

quote from jay....
"Simply put, they should not vary in-size to the degree that one will not replace the other. If they do, they are not shaped sufficiently, and the technique of manufacture must be refined.

Not sure what you are pointing out, but here is and attempt.
Again, the holes are not varying in size it is the amount of draw that is in question, and hence, by having pegs that are not cookie cut are handy, I don't have to set down on the horse and shave pegs during raising. Although I have been known to do just that, not my preference.

For the OP, I don't see a tapered peg being an issue for the majority of joinery used.