Even'n Roger, et al,
O.K. I'll try to address each point you made Roger.
1. Mushrooming--cause, driving force too high--reason, peg to thick, offset too great--conclusion, reject
True mushrooming of wood fibers can happen either by too high a driving force or a light force over repeated strokes, as often happens at raising with folks that cant it hard but can hit often. (one reason we keep striking caps around, just to avoid this.) If the offset is to great, tradition teaches to alter offset and/or you should have used a real Draw pin.
2. Mushrooming--cause, weak peg, such as high ring count ring porous hardwood, unnoticed decay, wrong species--conclusion, reject
This can be very true and I agree, however, when the peg was being created through proper riving and/or assessment by an experienced timber wright, it would have never made it into the hands of someone that would try to put it into a frame, it would have been rejected much sooner.
3. Splitting--cause, grain runout, flaw in grain--conclusion, reject
Agreed again, but also the same comment about assessment, it should have never been chosen to be a trunnel.
4. Splitting--cause, off center hard face hammer blow--conclusion--possible parallel and horizontal shear, reject and strike with a soft face hammer or a mallet
Absolutely agree, this is a reject and the person that is doing the work should be using a striking cap until they develop better technique.
So that is where the completely wrong conclusion stems from.
I'm sorry Sir, by no means have you justified this position.
Try making an effort to understand the other guy. Here is a link to an identical erectors wrench that I have been using about fifteen years...The wrench is completely handy, hangs on a hammer loop, and is specifically designed for aligning bore holes, sorry it's not traditionally proper. Tomatoes Toe-Mahh-Toes
As a teacher and facilitator of this craft and others, I always try to understand someones position of a topic, but if I feel my experiences and training notes a possible flaw in their methods, I share that. I not only know about Klein tools, I have even facilitated their modification, as Tim suggested tonight.
The issue with you method is that traditional Draw Pins are meant to be driven to their maximum size, that is why they come in different sizes. You are to drive them until they reach that specific terminus, which is just a wee bit shy of the trunnel hole they are placed in. So unless you are drilling 1.125" Trunnel bores, the Klien tool you are using is not correctly being implemented for for true Draw Pin technique. It is not tomatos or Toe-Mahh-Toes. It's apples and oranges.
I'm not at all feeling peevish but you still have not made a solid point about me being in error in anyway. I don't even think we disagree that much. However, I do think I have as much, or maybe more, experience than you, and perhaps it's you that should, "Try making an effort to understand the other guy." Your technique is not flawed per say, but it is not complete or being implemented correctly or as it was intended to be, that's all.
Regards, jay
