When I'm hewing, I'm sitting on the log. The log is sitting on a trestle about a foot off the ground. That's all the higher I can conveniently lift it. As I begin finishing an already roughed out log, I am sitting clear out on the tip, the butt to my rear. I hew, and then I scoot back, hew and scoot back. As I move backward, the finished hewn face stretches out in front of me. When I get to the butt of the log, I scoot right off the log onto a five gallon bucket. I sit on it and hew the very end of the log. Actually, I use the broadaxe more like a slick on the ends. I pare down to the line with it. I have a hard time hewing the ends as perfectly as I would like. OK, done with side number one. Back to the tip. No rolling the log. I sit on the bucket again, hewing (and paring) to the line at the tip. I'm facing the other direction now, toward the butt of the log. As I hew down the log, I scoot off the bucket onto the log and again start hewing and scooting, hewing and scooting, toward the butt of the log. Now my finished hewn face is behind me as I work down the log. I don't like the second side as much, I like to use the hewn face as a guide as I hew. Can't on the second side, always working into fresh unhewn material. I would prefer to roll the log, that way I could always be working backward with the hewn face ahead of me. But cabin logs are more exposed to the weather than other timbers. You have to worry about tool marks catching rain, allowing dampness a chance to get in the log. I always work the log crown side down, opposite the way it will sit on the structure. If I rolled the log, one side would have tool marks facing up, they could catch rain. In an ideal world, you could just determine, on this particular log, this face will be outside, and that face will be inside. But it gets too complicated, especially when you have to start figuring which butt will go over which tip in the structure.