Hi Tim B.

All in all...the reasoning behind your system of pegging makes sense...

I would suggest that it is not the traditional nor standard practice for pegging or pinned joint systems...

"Offset" drawn joints are meant to be "pre loaded and drawn" before the peg or square pin is inserted and driven home.

In absence of a metal "podger"...a well seasoned and hardwood peg (undersized and tapered for 1/3 its length) of a wood species like Dogwood (aka "Dagger Wood") is fire tempered and case hardened. This is used in place of a metal podger or draw pin to "pre-draw" the joint and is driven from one side...and out the other. Then the final peg is driven in.

This would be time to note that pegged and pinned joints should also be wax and lubricated. This in turn diminishes greatly (if not arrests completely) the worry and/or risk..."...of blowing out the relish on the back of the peg hole..."

As suggested before Tim, such "tapered pegs" would not (most likely in many cases) meet PE specifications for a pegged or pinned joint. There is no need to..."calculate the relish and the blowout that will happen if the peg is crammed into a drawn hole..." because a peg or pin should never be "crammed into a draw hole" that isn't pre drawn and well lubricated...Which is a traditional practice in several timber framing cultures.

If your system works for you, and you do not have to meet PE mandates on frames, by all means do as you will. I only suggest that it is an "invented system" and not a standard nor traditional practice in common overall, but indicative of some of the post era and contemporary timber framing methods that have taken place in some areas of timber framing as reflected in relocated old barns and timber frame homes. In that regard, it is in practice...but not the original work.

In reference to your description of "cross section" a peg or pin (per numerous PE I have worked with over the decades suggest) must have a "full diameter" or "cross section from point of entry to exit...not just a portion thereof. So, to be clear, I did not "leave out this factor in...strength," as I understand the mechanics and reasoning behind why modern timber framing PE, and traditional Timberwrights did it the way I have described...more commonly than the method you have suggested and employ. Again, if you like what you do...by all means continue. I only suggest additional insight to the craft and meant no offense.

I also agree that many joints are pegged for the shear sake of raising the frame, and play little within the structural integrity of the joint. This is why (and in some areas quite common) oblique braces are never pegged. Instead they are "wedged" and sometime they are place after raising. Most "brace assembly" lack the proper relish on their tenons to ever have a peg driven through them, nor need it...Just to address one joint that is pegged that shouldn't be nor actually needs it as it works only in compression...