For the general part of it all Tim...and in the frames I have followed your work on...I think (I could be wrong without understanding more details) that your method is fine and does probably serve you well. I believe it was also you that brought up "redundancy" here or someplace else and I agree with that also so the peg size isn't the "most critical" element collectively on a frame though still very important.

I am curious, it the accumulative cross section of a member assembly is say 200 mm (8")...what percentage of that is full peg and what still has tapper after being driven home?

To your questions (speaking from my own experience and understanding of its methods):



By all major principals of the method as I know it...They are "drawn" as I understand the method. I am a "green woodworker" fan of the Jennie Alexander, Roy Underhill, Peter Follansbee ilk, so be it riven green oak, hickory, ash, pine etc for a Trestle table, cabinet or "knockdown" Armoire to a timber frame...I like my wood "green" and draw boring does well with these systems. The holes are offset accordingly and the joint "undercut" often as you rightfully suggest to achieve the tight fit these combined methods yield when working well in concert with one another...



I could be missing it on this one...?? but from the layout systems I use and the approaches I take to this there isn't much variation, unless I am understanding this question incorrectly? We manage a very tight draw because of the draw pin or podgers.



It usually crushes the ingress point and fully fills the egress area with some crushing there as well in some species. I do also like octagonal or hexagonal riven pegs the best, and much more than turned pegs...if too dried out both will get oil soaked, and these days I am really liking the canola oil as it isn't a "drying oil," and the pegs stay strong yet suppel...