Hi Francis,
I couldn't agree more about Sergey’s work. All that I have seen or heard from folks is very positive, especially for the price he charges. I’ve seen others work that are not quite as nice, charge twice as much. I also agree that I like more disclosure from a Smith about what alloys they are using and Sergey is more than willing to discuss tempering and heat treating methods as well...
If you have “stick built” and done trim level carpentry you should have more than enough foundational skills to get into this craft without issue. Timber framing is a craft often better served by a novice not having preconceived notions about woodworking, like wood having to be dry before it can be used, or how to approach certain aspects of the craft like layout.
As for the chisels and related tools, once again it will all depend on where you think your style of timber framing will take you or what styles of timber framing you aspire to try first. The link to the slicks is an example of a very nice set, but I’m not certain I would recommend a novice Timberwright spending that money on a pair of slicks. A 1.5” slick and a good #4 smother and a block plane would serve you better than that set of slicks...as just one example…
As to striking slicks, that is a huge NO!!! Those “mushroom heads” are for comfort in pushing with the shoulder, hand, or even stomach...not striking of any kind…Furrel chisels (aka “metal ring retainer”) are the type for striking with a mallet or hammer.
As for whether metric or imperial, that again is up to you. 98% of my tools are metric and at this point from tape measures and squares to most chisels, saws, and even electric tools. I like working in metric but can work fluidly in both. I can say that I don’t use fractions anymore that often as whole numbers are easier and the rest of the world “speaks metric,” rather than fractions of an inch so all blueprints and CAD modeling is done in millimeters...as found in 98% of the world...
I assume straight is what I would want except for something I was going to use as a slick.
Not necessary...again it depends on style. I do a lot of work with butt chisels and many types of carving chisels as well in the timber framing I do, like Japanese tea house gouges as just one example. So your style is going to dictate the chisels and related tools you will find useful. At this stage, a very basic set is more than enough. I would also note that many slicks are straight and not offset.
Any feedback regarding ring bound and mushroom head handles.
All my chisels meant to be struck have striking hoops and anything meant for pushing is ergonomically comfortable with most of my tool handles wrapped in wool felt then leather as a number of my handles are all metal rather than wood...
Anything else you would consider I would order at the same time a splitting froe, draw knife/rounded draw knife, I see the carpenters axe some people say they use them others never use.
All of those are useful and will be used if one stays in this craft and style of woodworking...
