I Very much agree, even though we do not oil our frames. I have used the mix EXACTLY as Rudy has set out, i.e. un-boiled & raw for all home projects, some times going for 2 or even 2.5 parts gum turps on very green timbers, as a priming coat.

I understand that Real gum turpentine and linseed oil have good green credentials, and are relatively non-toxic and safe. Linseed is also non flammable (allegedly or so the UK's main imported tells me - In fact what he actually said - In a heavy Scots accent, was that you can- "Boil It To Buggery" without it catching afire).

It really does appear to be self healing, and for reasons I don't understand resistant to both water and heat marks, therefore as such makes an excellent furniture finish.

My experience would also lead me to believe that it slows down and reduces the incidence and occurrence of shakes and shrinkage.

Beware

IT CAN TAKE A LONG TIME TO GO OFF / DRY.

I have a recommendation however; this is what I do:
If I have oil finished an artifact, (those who know me well will appreciate my reluctance to call my stuff furniture), I check it after a few days by placing articles of junk mail on the surface to check the degree of bleeding, since I seem to have no shortage of this stuff, I just do this every day, examining the previous days offering as I check my post (no pun I mean Mail), until such time as the bleeding stops and the finish can be declared dry. This can take weeks rather than days.

You may find that applied to a frame which is part of a construction site, the oil will act as a dust magnet, with undesirable results.

Historically people have alluded that when applied to pieces of furniture this attraction for airborne debris has resulted in smoke particulates, (from the open fires - before the days of chimneys / fire places) adding to the patina. I feel that this may have more to do with the beeswax polish, and don't currently have the band width to open that line of reasoning, (especially as I'm far out of my depth as it is!)

By a strange coincidence last week I was rounding of the week in my usual Friday after-work venue - The Jolly Huntsman, the Landlord asked me to pass comment on the work of the guy refinishing the bar fixtures and furniture (after the fire before Christmas) This would be french polisher has an excellent job traveling the length and breadth of the country specializing in this work. He of course has to wait for the clientele to depart before starting his night shift, and judging by his early evening intake, has mastered the art of working with a serious happy head. His work was excellent, and he explained in great detail the various modern chemicals he was using. It was mostly double Dutch to me, and I explained my Ludditeish attachment to Linseed, where upon this techno chemical expert exclaimed that linseed was beyond doubt the best finish of all!!!!

He also gave me this valuable tip which I have yet to try. The day following application wipe the surfaces with a rag soaked in methylated (mineral) spirits, this will apparently leave the surface dry.

You can also use Linseed Oil on ironwork and Stone

Lastly I have a question

We have been given the name of an Oil which is suitable for use externally, (which Linseed is not), and which seems to preserve the light colour of oak without being shiny. This stuff is apparently called Oak Oil and goes under the trade name of Sabrina.

I would be very grateful for all and any info on this subject